It is always amusing, instructive and even pleasing to read a negative review of a place one loves. THose of us who are Locke-Ober devoteees don't mind calumny hurled at the old girl but we of course want the place to do well else it be closed. What amuses is the extent to which someone can miss the point of the place. Of course, it is sad if someone has been rudely treated but experience shows that often(not always) the treatement has been coaxed out of the staff. Two sad trends have developed in Restaurant Reviews: the first is the resentment of dress codes. Denim of any kind should not be allowed in any restaurant of merit nor should pants suits, leisure suits or other abominations. respect for the older places and the people around one are important(As Grace Kelly rebuked her daughhter's dress one day, "_I_ have to _look_ at you.") A little self-respect and respect for the place goes a very, very long way. The second problem is the complaint that an old restaurant is not exciting, or serving, as we have learned to say, "cutting edge" food or, more bloviatedly, "cuisine>" Locke-Ober serves its traditional fare and some dressed up items that Shire has wisely put on the menu to compete. One goes there for continuity and cream---and butter. Shad Roe were magnificent there last trip, the salads were nice if a little frou-frouy. THe place should not be condemened for not being something. And try the steak tartare...not as of yore (would that it were...it was a great pile of chopped ,meat with all the goodies..now it is a smaller, streamlined version but still excellent.) Coffee is nothing to scream about, though, at least not to aging New Orleanians outside their hunting grounds.
Pros: Tradition, elegance, rich, straightforward food
Cons: Patrons who don;' behave