I have to admit, eating at this restaurant as one of a party of three was a leap of faith, even moreso after entering the door. All too often in the restaurant industry these days (especially in Los Angeles and New York), the newest and hottest places just don't deliver the goods. Radius impressed in every way possible in a contemporary environment without any attitude.
We all chose to have the tasting menu without wine pairings and it was a delight. Their tasting menu is "blind" in that one does not know the next course and they are presented at your table right after plating. Starting off with hawaiian grouper sushi with ponzu and kumquats to fennel-encrusted halibut over caramlized onions with a small bit of orange reduction to perfectly-cooked lamb, a cheese course, and finishing with surprisingly inventive (and fantastic) desserts, this meal rates as one of the most interesting and outstanding dining experiences in quite a long time.
Everything was cooked to perfection including our vegetarian's Meyer lemon glazed salmon substituted during our lamb course. The desserts deserve a bit of mention - the special carrot cake for the night - dense, with just a hint of sweetness - with pickled carrots, mascarpone cream and chopped almonds was a fantastic pairing of flavours, but the handmade ice cream, chocolate cake (I'm not a chocolate-lover) and goat cheese cheescake were highly enjoyable, not overly rich by any stretch of the imagination, inventive, and fun.
The only downside to the evening would honestly be the portions! While I have often come away from various tasting menus still hungry, Radius' portions were a bit too large and we ended the meal engorged. This may be our doing - omit the optional cheese course and for the average eater, the four course size should be perfect.
Like my Los Angeles Valentino review from this evening, service here was as good as service can be - napkins were folded and/or replaced upon returning to the table, recommendations/ommissions/substitutions handled with grace and professionalism, and presentation of the dishes was confident but not gladhanded.
The proof's in the pudding, so the cliche goes, and the food here was a delight - for what we received, one would be hard-pressed to find a better meal. Each course was memorable in its own right, and while a bit random (except for the repeated use of micro greens and kumquat), it provided great, albeit expensive, experience to remember.
Posted 06/17/06